Archaeological Treasures of Orkney and Shetland

Our odyssey begins in either of Scotland's two largest cities, from which we wind our way north through the Kingdom of Fife to Dundee, on the banks of the famous silvery River Tay.

We push on through the lush Angus countryside until we spy our first stop – the dramatic and unmistakable ruins of Dunottar Castle. Balanced precariously on the cliffs outside Stonehaven, this fearsome fortress dates back to the Middle Ages and was once the home of the powerful Earls Marischal family. As the mighty waves pound the rocks beneath you on three sides, you’ll have time to marvel at a site that still echoes with centuries of mystery and bloodshed involving Vikings, William Wallace, and Mary, Queen of Scots.

With our imaginations well and truly fired, we continue northwards until we reach the imposing buildings of Aberdeen and see for ourselves why it's known as 'The Granite City.' Here, we hop aboard our Northlink ferry for the overnight crossing to Shetland.

Departing at 7pm, you'll enjoy dinner in the restaurant before retiring to your comfy twin-berth cabin and being rocked to sleep by the ebb and flow of the waves.    

Stretching our sea legs, we'll enjoy a hearty breakfast before arriving in the bustling harbour of Lerwick, where our adventure begins in earnest.

Our first stop is the tiny uninhabited island of Mousa, famous for its beautifully preserved 40ft-high Iron Age roundhouse. The broch of Mousa has gazed impassively out to sea for more than 2,000 years and even appears in Norse mythology. While admiring its winding staircase, keep an ear out for the plentiful birdlife, including skuas and storm petrels. If you're in luck, you may spot a seal lounging beneath – or even dolphins and Orcas frolicking in the icy waters.

The Mousa trail is steep, uneven, narrow and/or boggy in places and unsuitable for limited mobility. Sturdy walking boots and waterproofs are recommended. Facilities on the island are limited with no toilets, shelter or seating available.

If weather issues arise, we will visit Scatness Broch on the mainland instead of Mousa.

Back on the mainland, we'll stop for lunch at Hoswick Visitor Centre before travelling back in time at the fascinating settlement of Jarlshof. Wander the ruins and soak up 4,000 years of history amid ancient buildings from the Stone, Bronze and Iron Ages. Learn how Viking settlers landed here and built their distinctive longhouses to shelter from the elements.

More spectacular sights await at nearby Sumburgh Head, with its lonely lighthouse marking the point where the North Sea crashes into the Atlantic Ocean. 

Made hungry by the sea air, we return to our cosy hotel where traditional Scottish fare awaits.

A splendid breakfast is essential to prepare us for the day ahead before we snake our way south to the beautiful St Ninian's Isle, named after Shetland's patron saint. Here we'll stop to explore its famous 6th-century church and burial ground, perched high on the windswept cliffs. It was here in 1958 that a local schoolboy found a cache of 9th-century silver and jewellery under a crossed floor slab, hidden from prying Viking raiders.

Further treasures await as we return to the village of Scalloway, which is nestled around a traditional Scottish harbour. Once the ancient capital of Shetland, we'll wander the 600-year-old walls of Scalloway Castle and learn about its most infamous inhabitant, 'Black Patie', AKA Earl Patrick Stewart.

After a break for lunch, our journey sees us meander through the site of the old Norse parliament, the Tingwall Valley, which means "a field or place where courts or assemblies are held".

After some time exploring the streets of Lerwick, we set sail for Orkney and enjoy another delicious dinner on the high seas. Once on dry land, it's a short journey to our hotel in Kirkwall, where we can settle into our comfy en-suite room for the evening. 

The many delights of Orkney are on our agenda today, so after breakfast, we head southwards across this wild and untamed landscape.

Our first item of interest comes as we approach the four Churchill Barriers, built in 1939 on the orders of the wartime leader to foil attacks on the British fleet at anchor by German U-boats.

Crossing the famous concrete causeways, we set our sights on another landmark shaped by the same conflict – Orkney's celebrated Italian Chapel. This unique building saw two Nissen huts transformed into a beautiful place of worship by Domenico Chiocchetti and his fellow Italian prisoners of war.

We'll have time to wander the grounds and admire Domenico's paintings above the altar before returning to Kirkwall for some further sightseeing. 

No visit would be complete without a pilgrimage to the soaring sandstone ceilings of Britain's most northerly cathedral, St Magnus, founded in 1137 by Viking Earl Rognvald and dubbed the "Light in the North". Our paths cross with 'Black Patie' once again in the ruins of the nearby Earl's Palace, built by the notorious nobleman in the 1600s, before we return to our hotel for dinner as the sun sets on a day of history and heritage.

The western shores of Orkney await us today, resplendent with a host of priceless treasures and unique landmarks at their many celebrated World Heritage Sites.

After breakfast, we travel to the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, including a visit to the ancient burial site at Maeshowe. Built in around 2800 BC, this 24ft-high tomb stands proudly overlooking the Lock of Harray, with its passages, chambers and huge collection of runic inscriptions among the finest in Europe.

Nearby are the brooding Stones of Stenness, whose weather-beaten faces have stood strong against the elements for 5,000 years.

Beside the revered ceremonial circle is the Neolithic village of Barnhouse, where we will learn about our ancestors among the remains of 15 Stone Age dwellings.

This fascinating glimpse into the past is the perfect preparation for one of the highlights of our trip - the world-famous and perfectly preserved settlement of Skara Brae, where you can follow in the footsteps of Neolithic farmers, hunters and fishermen. A more modern home can be found at our final stop of the day, Skaill House, where we'll explore the delights of this historic 17th-century manor house before returning for the final time to our welcoming hotel.

As dawn breaks on our final day in the islands, there is still plenty to discover.

Gills Bay is our destination, from where we change tack and head towards Inverness on the scenic North Coast 500. Along the way, we'll pass through delightful coastal towns and villages as we leisurely cross the Firths of Dornoch and Cromarty.

The rugged coast gives way to rolling hills and lush landscape, heralding our arrival in the stunning Cairngorms National Park. Passing through the dramatic peaks of the Pass of Drumochter, we have time to soak up the sights of glorious Highland Perthshire, with a stop on the way for refreshments.

Finally, we return to the Kingdom of Fife, from where you can end your archaeological adventure in either Glasgow or Edinburgh.